Goddamn I love top rope soloing.
As a member of an internet climbing forum I frequent often quips, there are two types of partners – the loud and silent. His witticism is especially, well, witty, because it refers, in particular, to the device branded by Wren Industries as the “Silent Partner™”. The device is Wren Industries’ particular interpretation of a solo climbing device but, when left un-capitalized, ‘silent partner’ provides a more generic and all encompassing view of the act of solo climbing. The ‘loud partner’, on the other hand, is the one with two hands, two feet, a mouth, and a whole lot to say.
I always have and always will prefer to climb with a partner. However, there is a unique sort of joy and sense of self-sufficiency to be derived from climbing alone. First, as someone that loves to get inventive, establishing a manageable and safe solo top roping system can be an enjoyable challenge in and of itself if approached with the right attitude. I am constantly refining and perfecting my own system but, as it stands, it’s a pretty foolproof system, although I always strive for a greater form of elegance and simplicity in its construction.
The joys of its engineering aside, the top rope solo system presents a versatility that is uncommon (if not totally non-existent) in a ‘loud partner’. You’ll never find a top rope solo system that has to work late, is sick with the flu, or is going to their sister’s birthday party. In fact, most times I leave mine in the car all day without water and food and yet still find it just as eager to climb as when I left it there in the morning. It seems to generally agree with me when I pick a climb and (while it certainly never encourages me past a thin crux or a sketchy roof), it also doesn’t have a laugh at my expense when I grease off of a 5.easy. It doesn’t get bummed when there is a long approach but, then again, I tend to be doing most of the schlepping. Most importantly, I get to spend most of my time out at the cliffs actually ON the cliff and never have I found myself queued up on a climb when out with the ‘silent partner’.
Since perfecting my setup I’ve been able to get out on the vertical at least 50% more often that I have been, and I think as I continually improve my schedule and setup this number is bound to improve. Relying on my own system has made me a better climber – both more at home on the rock in addition to bolstering faith in systems of my own design.
I still love you ‘loud partners’, but you’ll have to pry my ‘silent partner’ from my cold, dead hands.
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I'm right there with you. I use a Soloist myself. Do you have any pictures of your set-up? I have to say it did suck once when I came up to a roof to discover a bees nest. The work around would have been a hell of a whipper if I had not pulled it off.
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ReplyDeleteNo photos of my setup, but you aren't the first one who's asked so I imagine I'll be posting one up soon. I am currently musing over better ways to pay out the rope as I climb. What system are you using to that end?
I'm working on it, too. I'm trying weighting the rope. Haven't found the correct weight yet. Also, had to do a big side move, and got it hung up. That sucked. Testing continues...
ReplyDeleteOf course the weight will vary depending on the length of the climb, but I've just been weighting mine with the excess rope. I will coil the excess rope and then attach it back to the hanging end of the rope with a prussik. The prussik is nice because I can adjust the coil's height to account for rope stretch.
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